February 25, 2010 § 10 Comments
These fries are so wonderful – they are creamy on the inside and crispy-browned on the outside. I learned this recipe from Cook’s Illustrated, from the very first copy of the magazine I held in my hands, given to me for my first Christmas in America by Jacob’s mom. This recipe is from the issue number sixty-six of January 2004. I make this dish a lot (scroll down to the bottom real quick to see how nice they look).
First, preheat the oven to 475 degrees F.
First you gonna need some potatoes. People at Cook’s deemed that Russet potatoes made the best fries, but I actually prefer the Yukon Golds, which I find sweeter, and a prettier color. The original recipe called for “3 large Russet potatoes,” but really, you can use as many as will fit into the pan and your appetite will handle. In this case, I am way at the bottom of my homegrown potato stash (literally, at the bottom of the bin), so I am down to real small ones – so this is how many I used. These are mostly Yukon Golds with a few Russets mixed in.
Cut your potatoes in half, then cut each half into three wedges, like this. I found this resulting size to be perfect for this recipe – you don’t want them too thin. I don’t peel them like I would back in the Old Country, because, you know, we are not in Kansas anymore, and for a good reason.
Now put them into a bowl and fill the bowl with very hot tap water, leaving them in the water for 10 min.
About the pan – the Cook’s article indicated specifically that this works best with a dark, non-stick, heavy-weight [jelly-roll] pan, which, they claimed, would result in the evenly browned fries. This is what I have here – and the potatoes do indeed come out perfect. You might find it a bit unsightly, as it’s been banged up somewhat from years and years of use. Note that I generally try to stay away from non-stick (I still use non-stick baking pans though), but, in this case, possible adverse health effects are by far overridden by the heavenly flavor of these potatoes. I mean, life is short, no matter what you do. Might as well enjoy it.
Now drizzle the pan with 4 T of vegetable oil (as always, I use exclusively the Driftless Organics sunflower oil, but I’ve made them with the supermarket kind for years).
I realize the photography is particularly poor in the case of this cooking session – that’s because I was in a hurry to actually put the food on the table before the actual family in time for supper, which I did.
Tilt the pan slightly in every direction to coat.
Now sprinkle the pan with 3/4 t of salt and 1/4 t of pepper. This will now be pretty salty – you may opt to use less if you prefer. These measurements are for table salt, not sea salt, which is sharper and you’d want to use less of it, I think.
Drain the potatoes and dry them well with paper towels (though I just use a clean kitchen towel).
Wipe the bowl dry, return the now-dry potatoes to the bowl, and toss with 1 T of oil until well-coated.
Spread them on a baking sheet.
Cover the baking sheet tightly with the aluminum foil, place it in the oven, and set the timer for 5 min. Remove the foil after 5 min, and continue cooking for another 10-20 min (depending on the heat of your oven), or until pleasantly browned on the bottom and starting to get brown spots on top.
When they reach that point, take the sheet out of the oven and flip each piece (here’s where the labor intensive part comes in) using small tongs or two forks or a fork and a spoon or magic spells.
Return to the oven for the additional 5 to 10 min, or until brown on top. Remove to a platter lined with several layers of paper towels. Consume ASAP.
Best Oven Fries
Source: Cook’s Illustrated Magazine, Issue # 66 of January 2004
- Several potatoes, cut into wedges by first halving your potato, then slicing each half into three wedges
- 5 T vegetable oil (not olive)
- 3/4 t table salt
- 1/4 t black pepper
Preheat the oven to 475 degrees F. Place the potato wedges into a large bowl and cover with very hot tap water. Let sit for 10 min. Coat a heavy jelly-roll/baking pan with 4 T of oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Drain the potatoes and dry completely with paper towels or a kitchen towel. Wipe the bowl dry, return the potatoes to the bowl, and add the remaining T of oil, tossing until the potatoes are well-coated. Place the potatoes in neat, elegant rows onto the baking sheet and cover the sheet tightly with aluminum foil. Set the timer for 5 min. Remove the foil after 5 min, and cook for the additional 10 to 20 min, or until the potatoes are brown on the bottom and spotted brown on top. Flip the potatoes, and continue cooking for 5 to 10 min more, or until browned on the second side. Remove to a platter lined with several layers of paper towels, and serve immediately.